| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
Jason 377 Senior Member
Joined: 02 Jan 2005 Posts: 199 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 9:07 am Post subject: Repainting my 68 Corvette.Where do I start? PICTURE UPLOADED |
|
|
Here is a picture of my 1968 Corvette. I am looking to repaint it. The Fibreglass body is pretty good but the existing red paint has many chips and is badly faded. What steps should I use to be able to repait it? Should I try to paint strip it or should I just block the original paint ,repair,primer,block and repaint?
Thanks Jason |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Doright Valued Member
Joined: 16 Sep 2008 Posts: 1248 Location: Pahrump NV.
|
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 2:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Wow looks like my 74 kinda, you got more chrome!
Nice car.
I wouldn't use the stripper idea for all the tea in china.
Besides you end up sanding it any way when you use stripper.
Do the later, Sand it out repair prime paint some will say sand seal prime block paint.
I dunno the benefits of sealing when your staying same color maybe some one more experienced will chime in.
Paint looks sound you may not need to seal it. _________________ Dennis B. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
 |
250fc Member
Joined: 27 Nov 2008 Posts: 24
|
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:48 pm Post subject: |
|
|
whaou, nice 'vette!
it's a white camaro near?
you can repaint your car without all primered if you make a red color
but if you change, you do repair, and all primer before. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
MARTINSR Valued Member
Joined: 28 Mar 2005 Posts: 1501 Location: San Francisco Bay area
|
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 7:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I am for sanding it off, one panel at a time and getting it back in primer before moving to the next panel. Stripping a car complete is VERY overwhelming.
The first thing I see in that photo is a full garage. Where do you plan on doing this work?
Brian _________________ Free lance adviser
"Hitting the pavement at 100 mph really smarts"
Evel Knievel |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
 |
whiplash Senior Member
Joined: 09 Oct 2006 Posts: 183 Location: Sudbury Ontario
|
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 7:42 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Nice clean car I would apply a good couple of times wax and grease remover thenfind all your chips ect fill them with smc & fiberglass filler from evercoat then block the whole vehicle apply primer were it is needed sand seal and paint with a high quality base and clear coat like Duponts chroma system or Global whatever your preference may be! Then Colour sand and buff after . _________________ Joey |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Jason 377 Senior Member
Joined: 02 Jan 2005 Posts: 199 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 8:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Thanks for all of the good replys. Yes thats my 68 Camaro Convertible in the rear. The other side if my garage is empty. That is where I am planning on doing the corvette. I can sand one panel at a time,filling any lows, fixing the chips and then primer each panel as I go. Can I use Evercoat Rage bondo to fill any lows and to fix the chips? If so what grit should I use on the existing paint for the bondo to stick well? Will I see repair mapping (bondo shrinking) once its painted after it has sat in the sun for some time due to bondo being applied over paint? |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
 |
MARTINSR Valued Member
Joined: 28 Mar 2005 Posts: 1501 Location: San Francisco Bay area
|
Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 2:07 am Post subject: |
|
|
LOLOL, I didn't see that Camaro buried over on the right. When someone mentioned "Camaro" I am thinking, "dumb ***, that's a Mustang".
Listen, if you want it super nice, strip the paint, repair anything big on the panel, then urethane prime it. Block that and you are good to go. You coudl do the same with polyester primer. Or you could apply an epoxy primer over the stripped panel. Do your repairs over that with filler then urethane primer over that and block it. Anyone of these ways will produce a great end product.
Brian _________________ Free lance adviser
"Hitting the pavement at 100 mph really smarts"
Evel Knievel |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
sportbikepainter Senior Member

Joined: 30 Aug 2005 Posts: 513 Location: Memphis, TN
|
Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:33 am Post subject: |
|
|
| MARTINSR wrote: |
Listen, if you want it super nice, strip the paint, repair anything big on the panel, then urethane prime it. Block that and you are good to go. You coudl do the same with polyester primer. Or you could apply an epoxy primer over the stripped panel. Do your repairs over that with filler then urethane primer over that and block it. Anyone of these ways will produce a great end product.
Brian |
Question for you, if you prime, then do repairs, what do your sand your primer with? _________________
 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
 |
Han Valued Member
Joined: 02 Jan 2005 Posts: 4238
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
MARTINSR Valued Member
Joined: 28 Mar 2005 Posts: 1501 Location: San Francisco Bay area
|
Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 11:33 am Post subject: |
|
|
Sport biker, if you do it within the window of the epoxy, no need to sand at all actually. But if you need to, 180 is all you need.
Han, you are RIGHT ON THE MONEY, I didn't even think about that until taking another look at that Vette. In the photo it looks DAMN NICE. If it looks that good in the photo it's likely a 20 footer. And a 20 footer can be made a 10 footer with a little detail work.
When I see a full garage like that, detailing is what I would be doing first as well. A complete paint job including stripping is a HUGE undertaking. Unless you are REALLY ready for it and have the space, you are going to be overwhelmed.
Brian _________________ Free lance adviser
"Hitting the pavement at 100 mph really smarts"
Evel Knievel |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
 |
Han Valued Member
Joined: 02 Jan 2005 Posts: 4238
|
Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:44 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I've been spending lots of time in Autopia.org and some of those guys can
work wonders. This vette looks like a good candidate for some buffin lovin.
The materials and tools are fairly inexpensive (under $500) and the aquired
skill will be needed for that stang.
Jason, it really is a good idea to spend some time on Autopia.org.
Those threads i posted are excellent examples from among the best on
that site. I've studied those particular threads for a while now. And the
process, materials and technique can be broken down into sections for
better digestion. _________________ A man can do all things if he but wills them. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Jason 377 Senior Member
Joined: 02 Jan 2005 Posts: 199 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 7:02 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The car is currently a 20 footer and can be made a 10 footer without a heap of work.Han, I will check out that site.I am happy to polish her up for now. I plan to finish my mustang first then move to the vette.
I was mainly looking to find out what my options are, due to this car being fibreglass. Can I paint strip fibreglass without damaging the Gell coat,etc? |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
 |
DarrelK Valued Member

Joined: 25 Feb 2004 Posts: 2361 Location: central Ohio
|
Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 10:21 pm Post subject: |
|
|
You'll get mixed opinions about using chemical strippers on fiberglass. I was a manufacturer of stripping chemicals for the wood and metal industry for awhile. We did offer some formulas that were considered "safe" for fiberglass but in my personal opinion thats' a loose cannon when it comes to surfaces like your Vette. Distortion to the outer fiberglass surface can definitely occur depending on the "dwell time" of the stripper. Most methelyne chloride stripping agents are designed to penetrate the coating, developing a powerful gas which lifts the paint away from the surface (thats' the bubbling, wrinkling you see). Problem is those gasses can mix with the glass resins and even become trapped. Best case scenario you end up with what looks like solvent pop, worse case you soften the surface, causing swelling, puddling, sagging, etc.
I'm not saying it can't be done but you've got to be careful and really watch the surface. Your Vette there looks real straight right now, that can all change with poor stripping. _________________ Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable! |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
CJT Senior Member
Joined: 08 Nov 2008 Posts: 486 Location: Cincinnati
|
Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 11:29 pm Post subject: |
|
|
No mixed feelings here, DO NOT USE CHEMICAL STRIPPER ON FIBERGLASS! The headaches and disadvantages far out weigh the advantages. The only thing you will achieve is stripping off paint. The mess is that the stripper will through the gel coat and into the glass. You will never block sand and primer and block and primer and block and primer so much in your life. You WILL hate it. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
 |
enkeivette Senior Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2008 Posts: 183
|
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:35 am Post subject: |
|
|
Take it from someone who just spent months removing 7 layers of crap off of a C3... media blast it! And make sure to have them use soft media (walnut shells?) and get it in writing from the shop that they will not damage the panels from blasting.
Save youself hundreds of hours of sanding and chemical stripping and more sanding till your fingers bleed. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|