if final wet sanding with 2000 grit what cutting compounds do you guys recommend ?

thanks in advance.

I use 3M perfect-it 3000 extra cut to start with after wet sanding. There are tons of choices when it comes to compounds and pads. Look through the first few pages here.

This is the most comprehensive write-up (so far):
http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-detail ... shing.html

It can be somewhat confusing at first. So, break down the process
into three.

1. Compound
2. Polish
3. Finish

Working definitions by Todd (aka TH0001 from Autopia.org)

Compounding (Cutting/Defect Removal)- Using an aggressive pad and compound/polish designed to quickly
level the paint and remove the defects... Depending on the depth of the defects, it may take several passes

Polishing- Refining the finish by removing light defects (either light marring or damage instilled by the compounding
process). What ever steps are used to remove the light marring would be considered polishing (with out going to a
compound or agressive set up that will require at least two more steps)

Finishing- Done by using a low cut pad and a finishing polish. Helps refine the paint, removing any trace damage
from the polishing stage. At this point, only one application should be needed because the defects remaing from
the polishing should be very light.

Burinishing/Jewelling (Meguiars' calls this finishing)- A optional step after finishing, done with a non-mechanical pad
and an ultra fine polish. For the sole intent of removing any microscopic (and possibly invisible) pad abrasion from
the finishing step. Reduces the chance of holograms or pad abrasion holograms appearing months down the road
and may increase the gloss of the paint further (most people feel it does)

Finally, and I mean finally someone refers to burnishing in this process. I've always pushed this idea in both wood and metal finishing but I always get this, "Well, there just can't be any burnishing or heeling over of the finish since the coating is a plastic." And I've always contended that since it is not fully cured when we're usually doing the cut and buff the finish is still in a malable "plastic" state and can be shaped. Oops... sorry for the rant, let the polishing continue....

Wow that link was a good read

Ya know... Since i joined that site, my technique has improved.
Mainly from better understanding and the new products. I'm a bit
more efficient now. The real test, for me, is to see how long it takes
to cut and buff out a black hood. I'd easily spend 5/6 hours on an
average size hood.

And those definitions should/will be altered to better suite us.
Calling compounding "defect" removal doesn't quite work here.
Gotta investigate this "burnishing" thing more. I do understand
what's going on (well enough at least). So, i'll need to become
a pseudo engineer for this and a wannabe chemist for paint.

Yeah, that's exactly it Han. In fine woodworking finishing it seems like we were always working with something between voodoo and alchemy when it came to cutting and buffing coatings. I mean, manufacturers would hand us a can or two of compound and say, "Here, this is what it takes to cut and buff our coatings, you can work it out from there." I think a lot of the earler urethane clear auto tech. wasn't a hell of a lot better than that up until the last 5 or 10 years. There is a definite trend to getting refinish coatings more level and glossy in a faster production method.

More alchemy than voodoo. It is "the art of transformation."

Burnishing:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burnishing_(metalworking)

Plastic deformation:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deformation_(engineering)

So, "plastic deformation" really starts at the beginning of the machine
"scratch refinement" process. In a nut shell, round about way, the
very top crystal structure is altered/flattened. And since the plastic
deformation is described as a range, the "voodoo" part of it all is
burnishing to an optimum point before fracturing occurs.